“When you get out of the hotel and into the streets what hits you about Gaza isn't the overcrowding and poverty. You've been briefed about that. What strikes you is something else. Idleness. (When I served there in the late ‘70s it was the stench that struck me) The sense of a people waiting, but with no expectation. It's hard to convey.
Getting in and out of the Israeli settlement of Kfar Durom requires a military
escort. 500 mortar shells have landed there in the last three years. Duringout pre-dinner break, I met an Israeli settler family. Two days before,a mortar round had exploded in their kitchen.